Job Responsibilities
Before attending law school, I was a costume designer for various
off- and off-off-Broadway and community theatres.
First, read the play to get an idea of what the author intended.
Then talk to the director, who may follow the playwright's lead -
or go off in a contrary direction.
Measure the actors. Do not take their word for it. You can look
at an actress and just know that she is a size 14, but she
says "6" with a straight face. Take detailed measurements.
Do your research.
Current settings are easier - you need a sense of who the
character is - does she shop at Nieman or The Gap? When you
envision his apartment, is it sleek stainless and black leather,
or are there dog hairs on the second-hand couch?
Historical plays require more attention and research.
For example, clothing that was current during the reign of Henry
VII was out of fashion during Elizabeth's later years. The
country of the setting matters also. France tended to be ahead
of the rest of the world for hundreds of years. Non-western
venues are more difficult, as we are not as attuned to their
symbols.
Paintings are good sources of information, especially
those that were done at the same time as the setting of the play.
Design the costume. Make drawings, show them to the director
and/or producer, and get a sign-off.
Shop for fabric - must make sure that what you are planning can
be accomplished.
Make the pattern; make a test garment in muslin or some other
inexpesive fabric. Fit it on the actor. Then, take it apart and
use it as the pattern for the actual garment.
Sew.
Time frames: it is nice to have a month to costume a show with
10 actors. It can be done in a week, if that is all the time
that you have. (Sleep becomes optional.)
Sewing is the most time-intensive.
Details matter. Remember to take hats, hair/wigs, gloves, shoes
and other accessories into account. The day at the races scene
in My Fair Lady is an excellent example of the importance of
accessories.
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Job Requirements
This position requires a background in theatre, design and
sewing. Art history classes are also useful.
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Uppers
Research and design. What was worn in 8th century China? How do I make boots
for the army characters on a budget?
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Downers
There is never enough money or time. 25 costumes in 2 weeks for
$500.
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Lifestyle
Unless you are very lucky and end up working for one employer, the uncertainties
cloud your lifestyle. Work hours can be brutal - 16 hour days are the norm,
followed by periods of unemployment while you line up the next position.
Travel can be great or not. It depends on where you are going and the condition
of the show when you get there. Will you just be doing touch-ups and repairs
(good) or has the director re-envisionsed the show and now you are in Athens,
Greece (good) without access to your sources, materials or sewing machine and the
show opens in 2 days (very, very bad).
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Compensation
Ha Ha Ha.
Not every job is a paid one. Some you do just for the exposure.
Some you do for the rent (no design credit, and a lot of sewing,
but you will get a check at the end).
Range is from $0 (literally) to $30,000 per year. The very top
designers get much more.
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Advice to Jobseekers
You have to really love it to do it. It helps to be unencumbered
by a mortgage or children.
Future outlook varies. More regional theatres mean more work for
designers. However, contemporary plays are easier to mount, and
cost a lot less. Some theatres will just tell the actors to use
their own clothes.
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